Experiencing Rome through the eyes of an Artist (me!) on a Sketching Tour

You know when you visit a place that is so vivid – so wonderful – that merely being there isn’t enough?  You want to drink it up, breathe it in, become a part of its fabric, internalize it somehow into the core of your DNA…Rome is certainly one of those places.  And no matter how much time you spend here, it’s hard not to feel constantly amazed at the sheer fabulousness of the city.

One sunny morning I found a wonderful new way to immerse myself deeper into the Rome experience; joining painter Kelly Medford on an intimate sketching tour of Rome.  Right from the beginning it was more than I expected.

Now, when I heard the term “sketching tour,” and she told me that she would provide all materials, I though – cool, she’ll bring a paper an pencil for me.   And then Kelly hands me this amazing little kit that literally fits in my purse.   Now, just the other day I was thinking…”when I get a bigger place, I’d really like to get an easel and paint, but our place right now is too small, so I can’t do it now, blah blah blah.”  No more excuses to not create!

It had a water color palette!  A watercolour pen/brush! A sketchbook with different textures of paper for various effect! The woman even MADE the sketchbook herself.  In Kelly’s words, “you need to feel inspired by your materials,” and I was.  Just in case you weren’t sufficiently inspired by the environment.

Over the course of the tour we made our way from Parco Pincio in Villa Borghese, to the top of the Spanish Steps.  The process of sketching makes you pay attention to details that you never would have noticed before.

It could have been easy to feel intimidated on a sketching tour of Rome. First, you are walking in the footsteps some of the greatest masters – and every where you look you are surrounded by stunning design – architecture, gardens, sculpture – even Italian clothes and shoes. Additionally there were some people on the tour who were actual artists.  But for a novice like me it was perfect. Kelly showed me how to work with various techniques, pushing my beyond my “art”  borders in a very gentle and supportive way – using different mediums and styles to different effect, like these:

Little tiny ink sketches

Ink and watercolor

This was a fabulous way to experience Rome through new eyes – and the best thing about it was that with everything I learned from Kelly and my new art studio in a purse, I can keep drawing wherever I am.  Grazie Kelly!  I would definitely recommend her tours to anyone who wants to experience Rome in a new way, get off the beaten track, or nurture a budding creative spark. You can join one of her “Rome Sketch Tours” here: http://kellymedford.com/workshops.

Kelly in action

Enrico and Michel want to know why you aren’t drinking wines from Orvieto

Enrico is a man with a mission. Years ago he purchased 22 acres of prime vineyard, just outside the ancient city of Orvieto, Umbria; overlooking Lake Corbara (about an hour north of Rome). With Freddano‘s elevation, softly sloping incline, fertile earth and sunny exposure, it was the ideal place for producing not just wine, but magnificent wine.

But he had a problem.

In the somewhat limited perspective of wine drinkers around the world, Orvieto doesn’t signify magnificent wines. Sure, everyone knows Tuscany = great wines, a mere 30 kilometers away. The fame of the Tuscan region means even that its less stellar wines command the highest demand and good wines can draw impressive prices. However, if a wine drinker in America or Canada or The UK deigns to try an Orvietan wine, they usually expect it to just be cheap.

So Enrico and and his oeneologist Michel had an important decision to make. They could take their lovely vineyard, cut corners, crowd the grapes, spray the land with chemicals and create cheap, non descript plonk; or, truly honor the potential of the land and create a magnificent wine to convince the world that Orvieto wines are contenders.

Fortunately for us, and for the earth; these winemakers chose not only to make gorgeous wines, but  upped the ante and committed to make them organic too (certified by Accredia)

Starting our visit standing in the vineyard, Enrico explained that it’s simply not possible for all vineyards to be organic. If the terrain lacks wind, is situated at a low altitude, or otherwise has damp conditions, it’s difficult to avoid mold and rot with anything but chemicals. But here at Freddano, the conditions are perfect for sustaining organic growth.

What can possibly taste better than wine sipped while standing in the soil of origin poured by its creators?

We sipped glasses of VIgna del Sole (“vine of the sun”) standing between rows of grapes; admiring the wildflowers growing at the base of the vines. All maintenance of the vineyard is done by hand, from the pruning of the vines to the cutting of the grass. We could imagine the wildflowers imparting a delicate hint to this delightful white.

And of course the ubiquitous rose bushes placed at the end of each row, the “canary in the mine.” roses are even more susceptible to diseases that affect the grapes. So by monitoring the health of the roses, a wine makers can monitor the health of their vines before a problem takes hold.

Enrico, with fans.

We moved onto the bottling facility where Enrico explained how not only the their agricultural production is organic, but also their fermentation process. This means there are no additives, and most importantly no flavorings added to the wines at any point. Again, more spectacular wine was poured, this time right from the casks, as we tried a grand, unnamed white which will be released in only limited quantities in magnum bottles – this was a true celebration wine! We bandied about inspired names, our enthusiasm whetted by our liquid creativity.

Freddano’s wines blend familiar with new – blending grapes you know, with ones you’ve never heard of – like Trebbiano & Grechetto with Chardonnay & Sangiovese – and modernizing ancient growing and processing techniques to achieve organic status. And constantly there is strong appreciation for the sense of place.  We are proud to make and drink Orvietan wines!  Right down to the bottles – which designs feature tiles from the stunning duomo (cathedral) in nearby Orvieto.

We wrapped up our “wine tasting and vineyard tour” with a 5-hour lunch in the stone farmhouse with 3 generations of family and friends. A perfect time to enjoy a “celebration wine” from Orvieto!  And we were convinced – Orvieto wines are magnificent (psssst…pass it on!)

Freddano is represented by Dialuce Wines in Canada and internationally.  Please contact Alex Dialuce to order.

A farmer’s market, and more! discovered in Northern Rome

One of the most pleasurable ways to develop an intimate relationship with a place is to explore a farmer’s market and meet the people who grow our nourishment with their own hands. So imagine my joy when I stumbled across this hidden & unique gem in the northern outskirts of Rome as I was cycling in Parco Regionale Urbano di Aguzzano.

Actually in Rome

It had all the features of the most innovative farmer’s markets.  Indigenous wildflower garden, check.  Solar panels, check. Wonderful local produce and products. Dogs and bikes. Check, check and check. And something you don’t get to see at farmer’s markets in Canada – local, organic wine!

Wildflower garden

Organic wines

But there’s even more to this bucolic oasis on the outskirts of Rome, which to my surprise was mainly populated by students.

I stopped to talk with Lucia, a friendly vendor selling wonderful local honey and whimsical beeswax candles scented with, of course, 100% organic essential oils.

Lucia & her Mom

Originally from Romania, she now shares her talents and passion for natural health and wellness with the lucky residents of Rome. Lucia graciously told me the history of this unique place.

It used to be a farm over a hundred years ago, and the building that dominates the site still features the feeding troughs for cattle.  Over time, the farm was abandoned and became the haunt of rebellious teenagers and outcasts.  Bad things happened here, Lucia remarked darkly.

But eventually the mayor of Rome stepped in and injected new life, creating Il Centro di Cultura Ecologica (the Centre of Ecological Culture).  The mission?  To “achieve a high level cultural center dedicated to issues relevant to environment and ecological culture,” engaging the local community, educators, farmers, artists and environmentalists. The barn was transformed into a library filled with donated books.  Its restored, bright interior was full of students on this Saturday, dedicating their energy to the study of sustainability & ecology.

All these Italian students learning how to create a sustainable future. Cool.

It’s easy to get discouraged sometimes pondering the local attitude toward the environment in Rome.  That a place like this exists in Rome makes me happy and gives me hope; especially as I contemplate my little bounty of beeswax candles.

Lucia’s beeswax candles

The organic farmer’s market (il MercatoBIO di Aguzzano) runs every 3rd Saturday of the month. It’s probably a little out of your way, but bring your bike or picnic blanket and make a day of enjoy this gorgeous environment. Just follow this path between the pines! Or, bring your bike on the Metro B to the Rebibbia station and find Via Fermo Corni.

How to get to MercatoBIO di Aguzzano (the best way): turn left a the lotus pond, head up the hill and turn right at the umbrella pine.

Un Giornata di Neve a Roma (a SNOW day in Rome)

In 25 years, the city has not seen a snowfall like the one we witnessed this weekend. As someone who has grown up with long winters (and frankly thought that I had escaped from them in moving to Rome), it was a delight to see the city under a blanket of snow. There are some unbelievable photos here: http://www.roninrome.com/living-in-italy/snow-in-rome-february-2012

It all started when, faced with a possible sprinkling of a couple centimeters of snow on Friday, Rome announced school cancellations Thursday night. Pleeeez. But sure enough, all day Friday there was a constant barrage of flakes, growing fatter and fluffier as the day progressed. By evening, flakes were starting to accumulate on the ground, and traffic ground to a complete halt.

Expecting this to be a passing weather phenomena, I was somewhat shocked to wake up Saturday AM to a world completely covered with white. It was not just a transformed landscape – with covered palm trees and Vespas looking uncomfortably out of place – the notorious drivers of Rome were also transformed. Normally reckless to the point of daredevils, Romans stayed off the roads almost entirely, and many the brave that ventured out Saturday morning wore chains on their tires – including the city buses!

But the lack of vehicles surprisingly did not confine Italians to their homes – somewhat to my surprise all over the city Romans were walking in droves, (and hopefully giving a thought to how painfully inadequate and poorly maintained/non-existent sidewalks are in the city).

(Even today, 2 days later, driving to the airport we passed 50-100 cars that had been abandoned by the side of the road…and I’ve just learned that Monday will be a day off for everyone with all public services shut down!)

Back to Saturday AM. The beautiful silence in the streets created by a lack of traffic was balanced by the liveliness of every available green space. One of the things I love about Italians is their playfulness. And the snow brought everyone out – I’ve never in my life seen so many snowball fights and snowmen, snowwomen, and snow priests. We even saw 2 snow cazzi complete with due coglone (no picture available).

Saturday afternoon the sun came out and the city was dazzled once again by the combination of blue skies and winter wonderland. Somehow, with no one driving in the streets, everyone magically seemed to have descended on Centro; shopping, strolling and having a grand adventure. Italians of course responded to the unusual weather with their usual flair for appropriate dress:

You can't really see them but we've got a pair of 4 inch stilettos here.

Many, many full-on snow suits

Not sure what's going on here but it looks warm!

It looked like one of the casualties of the day were the trees (I won’t discuss my experience at the airport today when only 20% of staff showed up, although curiously all the passengers managed to be there). Looks like Roman trees are just not used to the weight of snow and many trees lost major branches, I was shocked at how much of the city was littered with these.

Branches everywhere

In the end it was a blast, and it was funny for me to see Italians on every block making snowmen, but not knowing how to do them! They would pile up a mound of snow and then shape it into a snowman shape. I guess it goes to show that the knowledge of how to build a snowman might not be innate, but the desire to do so is universal! Here is a collection of Roman snowman for your viewing pleasure. Note the pile the snow in a big cone technique! And wouldn’t you know that Italians aren’t afraid to accessorize their snowmen?!

Little Caesar

Um...hula dancing snowman?

Flying snowman

Unearthing ancient Roman history beneath a Vatican parking lot

Today I was had the unique privilege of touring a yet-to-be opened necropolis within the walls of the Vatican, Via Triumphalis Necropolis.  The Canadian Club of Rome was given this special access due to Canadian Patrons of the Vatican Museum.

This amazing grouping of tombs dates back as far as the Augustan age (1st century AD) and spans until the age of Constantine (3rd century AD) and was discovered during the development of — a parking lot in the Vatican.

You don’t necessarily think you are in for a treat when the entrance looks like this:

But through this nondescript entry, and under a parking lot, you walk into one of the best preserved burial sites of ancient Rome.  It’s amazing to browse through these artifacts when they are displayed in their original settings.

We were able to see the how burial rituals evolved from 1st to 3rd century AD, moving from cremation (where ashes were stored in terracotta or glass urns) to burial…like these guys:

We learned that burial sites had built-in tubes so that relatives of the deceased could provide them with libations – liquid nourishment for the afterlife in the form of wine or mead. You can see them emerging from the ground. Amazing also to learn that once ancient Romans survived childhood they had a good chance of living into their 80s and 90s.  Seems like access to fresh water and sanitation goes a long way towards longevity.

Here are some shots of the day – it’s hard to convey how impressive this was.  But what impressed me more was a comment one of my fellow Canadians made while we walked through amazing mosaics, frescoes and marble inscriptions….”what will be left of our current culture 2000 years from now? Plastic?  Toxins? Styrofoam?” Good question.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More proof of Italy vs. China intercultural similarities

Many people expressed surprise by my article comparing how similar China and Italy are from an intercultural perspective.

Many similarities are values-based (ie family, social status), while there are more profound differences in outward expressions of culture (music, expressiveness).

But I’ve just discovered new proof!  Amongst Italian New Year’s traditions like eating lentils at midnight and wearing fancy new clothes out (to an overpriced event), is the ritual of wearing new red underwear!  This is also a ritual in China, albeit only if it is the year of your “animal.” January 23, 2012 heralds the Chinese year of the Dragon, so those born in 2000, 1988, 1976, 1964, 1952, 1940, 1928 and 1916 (well done!) should technically wear red underwear all year to protect themselves from jealous spirits….but many just feel that wearing red underwear on Chinese New Year’s Eve will suffice.

What would you do if your vacation date for a Romantic rendezvous in Rome doesn’t show up?

You fly from across the Atlantic Ocean for a much-anticipated romantic rendezvous over the Christmas holidays. And your date doesn’t show up.

Sure, he’s got his (alleged) reasons, but at the end of the day, you are looking at 10 days solo in Rome when you should be in doppio.

It could have been the worst trip of my life.

But instead, 5 years ago today I met the Italian love of my life, and this year I moved from Canada to Rome.

Happy 5th anniversary, my love!

PS ladies, if you are going to be stood up on a date, I suggest you let that happen in Rome. Italian men will never let a solo woman feel unappreciated!

Then....

Now 2011

Descending through layers of history at the Basilica of San Clemente

I realize that with my travel schedule its been a while since I actually wrote a post regarding, you know, Rome.  Today I braved the chilly temperatures and drizzle to visit the Basilica of San Clemente.  San Clemente was one of the earliest bishops of Rome, and a contemporary of Saint Peter (and some say, Christ) in the first century AD; when being an open follower of Christianity predicted a short life and unpleasant death.  Perhaps that was the inspiration for Christianity’s eventual persecution of pagans?

Just a few blocks away from the Colosseum, the Basilica of San Clemente is a fascinating reminder of the uniqueness of Rome’s  layers of history and how many of its Christian traditions were layered upon Rome’s pagan roots. To explore this marvelous church is to walk back in time — and your starting point is 1100 AD.

If you are fortunate, you’ll enter through the square courtyard with its graceful fountain and covered walkways.  Its simplicity belies the richly decorated 12th century church that sits at ground level.  Entering from the courtyard, you are immediately enveloped by the intensity of the rich decor.

The upper level 12th Century interior (CC Rome-Roma)

Unfortunately, I don’t have any of my own photos as photography is forbidden, and only having been in Italy for a few months, I complied with the rules.  This basilica is in remarkable condition despite being a thousand years old and each surface, from floor to ceiling, is adorned in a different style – from inlaid marble floors, to gorgeous frescos depicting the lives of saints and martyrs, to the luminescent mosaics about the main altar.  I loved the frescos depicting the life and trials of Saint Catherine, who was persecuted by the Emperor Maxentius (who was a contemporary of, and defeated by Constantine – the first Christian Emperor of Rome).

Saint Catherine and an angel miraculously destroy the wheel of torture (CC Monkey Fur)

Like I said, layers and layers of history.

While wandering the 12th century basilica is fascinating enough, take a detour through the gift store, pay 5 euros for a ticket and descend through history.

The next level down brings you to the 4th century basilica.  During one of the many sacks that Rome endured in the latter first millennium, this 4th century basilica was filled in and the current ground-level church was built upon its ruins in the 12th century.  The 4th century Basilica is amazingly well displayed, full of lighting and descriptive plaques in English and Italian.  The NYTimes describes it as “completely relit with discreet bronze lamps that shed light on once-hidden angles and cast haunting shadows. It was kind of like participating in a contemporary art installation (except the art was better).” Well done, Irish Dominicans.

One level down in the 4th century basilica (CC newliturgicalmovement-org)

Wait, what?

According to Wikipedia:

Irish Dominicans have been the caretakers of San Clemente since 1667, when England outlawed the Irish Catholic Church and expelled the entire clergy. Pope Urban VIII gave them refuge at San Clemente, where they have remained, running a residence for priests studying and teaching in Rome. The Dominicans themselves conducted the excavations in the 1950s in collaboration with Italian archaeology students.

It gets better…descend one level more and you’ll realize that 2 stories under today’s surface you are now at the level of ancient, 1st Century Rome, before time and neglect covered its civilization in metres of mud.  Hiding in the labyrinth of an ancient Roman patrician’s private villa are the remains of a Mithriac temple.

Let’s get to the patrician’s home first…it was apparently the villa of one of the first Roman senators who converted to Christianity; secretly holding meetings of the faithful in his home.  As I mentioned, 1st century Rome was a dangerous time and place for Christians – the reign of the Emperor Nero who initiated imperially-sanctioned brutal persecutions of Christians and oversaw the crucifixion of St. Peter.  Eventually a catastrophic fire destroyed this area of ancient Rome (attributed by many to Nero so he could build a golden palace).  The 4th century basilica was build directly over the ruins of the villa, and by the way; nearby the Colesseum was built as a gift to the Roman people to help ease their loss off massive swathes of the city in the same fire.  One of the more striking elements in this subterranean villa today is the sound of running water – in and before the first century AD, this villa was served by fresh spring water.  It probably had radiant floor heating too; I regret to observe that Roman interior heating has not evolved much in the last 2,000 years.

2 levels down in the cave of the Mithraic mysteries (CC Cueni.ch)

The Mithraic temple itself is very much a mystery, and its rituals and beliefs even at the height of its influence in the first century BC were only shared with its initiates.  This temple was meant to resemble a ritual cave, and you can view the altar depicting the slaughter of a bull, and a tiny statue which seems to be Sol Invictus.  Some historians link the cult of Mithras to Sol Invictus, the Unconquered Sun, whose birth was celebrated on December 25.  Merry Christmas!

The vast array of breathtaking churches in Rome can be overwhelming, but although it’s a few blocks off the main tourist circuit, San Clemente is truly unique in its enormous span of history, as well as the the quality of its displays.

You can find it by walking past the Colosseum for a few blocks and turning right.  Or you can follow this map.

A week and a half of European Christmas Markets

Christmas Market in Old City, Warsaw

These past 2 weeks have brought me on a veritable tour of the Christmas markets of Europe. I travelled to Budapest, Bratislava, Brno, Prague and Warsaw. With the exception of Prague, all were cities I visited for the first time. Sadly my schedule prevented me from seeing much (OK, any) of the local sights. But I found much solace in wandering the streets of each beautiful city; following the trails of sparkling lights to find the Christmas markets scattered throughout.

There are many compelling reasons to visit the Christmas markets in this area of Europe, but personally my favorite is wandering in the cold while sipping hot mulled wine. Variably called “varene vino” (Slovakia), “forralt bor” (Hungary), “grzaniec” (Poland), or “svařák” (Czech)…

Bratislava Christmas Market

I guarantee you will not need to know how to pronounce it and you will have no problem finding many stalls offering it at very cheap prices (1 Euro in Bratislava), and many friendly locals drinking it at this time of year! Warm wine sweetened and spiced with lemon rind, cardamon, cloves and more is a sublime treat on a cold night. The local foods are another fantastic reason to spend time at these markets, and you can spend many hours wandering, nibbling and sipping under the lights and stars.

At the end of November, Budapest’s Christmas market stalls (map: Vörösmarty Square) seemed as though they were barely getting started with only a few lonely shops in the midst of a boisterous central eatery. A shame too, as the few stalls that were open looked like they had the best array of unique local products, and not just the stuff you’d find in the tourist traps.

Bratislava has not one but 2 Christmas markets in Old Town, one complete with a skating rink at Hviezdoslavovo Námestie – well done, Bratislava! They are within easy walking distance, your varene vinowould not even get cold walking from one market to the other. I noticed that shops selling toys and non consumables closed down early, before 8 PM. But for me the market in Bratislava was to marvel at the foods of my Slovak ancestors.

Meat, and more meat in Bratislava

I am surprised with all the Slovak foods I was raised on (Halušky, kapustnica, rosky) that I was never initiated into the delights of varene vino. And I am also surprised with all the fried meat that my grandparents were healthy enough to embark on their trip to Canada.

Learning how to order mulled wine at the Prague Christmas Market, with the aptly named Noelle

Prague seemed full of Christmas markets and vendors selling outdoors in its atmospheric squares. But the main event can be found in the Old Town Square where again mulled wine and hearty quantities of meat were the order of the day. I feel that Prague is one of the most astounding cities of the world, and its whimsical architecture makes the perfect fantasy Christmas backdrop.

Finally, in the Christmas markets of Warsaw, in the Old Town Square and in the shadow of the uber communist relic Palace of Culture & Science, I discovered the most important rule of Chrismas markets – they are romantic! So bring someone to stroll with, even if he does not share your passion of varene vino.

So, christmas markets in Europe, to sum up: shop early, bring your appetite and above all, get into the Christmas mood with some mulled wine.

Grateful for a Lack of History

It’s easy to feel, compared to the great cities of Europe, that Canada is pretty boring.  2 days in Warsaw changed my mind.

We Canadians & Americans imagine how fortunate those are who live amongst Europe’s historic monuments and architecture, but we rarely understand that there is a darker side of those historic neighborhoods.  Here in Rome, monuments and triumphal arches thousands of years old illuminate wars and conquests of ancient heroes and villains.  Yet, somehow it’s easy to reflect upon the glory of those ancient events, and not the agony they caused.

Warsaw is very different.  I didn’t ever stop to consider why Warsaw had not been on my list of top places to see in Europe.  Perhaps I had just never been aware of anything really…famous…to see.  And of course I knew that Warsaw had suffered in WWII, but hadn’t so many places?

After my trip this week to Warsaw, I understand why.  I am humbled by the story of this city, and I am grateful for the distinct lack of a history like Warsaw’s in my native Canada.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

I didn’t know for instance, that Warsaw staged one of the greatest resistances to initial Nazi invasion…in the 1939 Siege of Warsaw the Poles defended the city for 20 days before it fell to Nazi occupation.  This is compared to the 9 days it took Paris to fall, despite being defended by the world’s largest standing army at the time.  The siege was one of the first instances of terror bombing, where Nazis targeted hospitals, schools, marketplaces and columns of civilians leaving the city.

Years later when the Nazis were starting to falter, in 1945 Warsaw staged an uprising that was eventually crushed.  The result was that the Nazis not only systematically massacred the people but virtually 90% of the city as well.

Brilliant Christmas tree in Warsaw's old city district today

I didn’t realize that the “old city’ was actually a modern recreation painstakingly rebuild based on photos and descriptions…that virtually no buildings of historic and cultural relevance exist today as they were targeted in a brutal campaign of retribution by the Nazis against this heroic city that dared to resist.

One of my older clients got tears in her eyes as she told me about this.  And yet the people of Poland are very sweet; although there is sadness there is no bitterness and you get a sense of a city which is re-finding itself.

I did snap a picture of one historic place that does still exist: one abandoned row of tenement flats that was a part of the horrific Jewish ghetto.  The holes in the wall are bullet holes. You can just feel the sense of abandonment, hatred, grief and desperation in these bricks…

Remnant of Warsaw's horrific ghetto. You can still see bullet holes.

It was a sobering reminder that the challenges and problems we sometimes face today are so insignificant….and how fortunate I am to have grown up in Canada.